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COOKING GANACHE | 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
 
HOW TO MAKE GANACHE CAKE
 

 
The truffle cake is chocolate cake at its most exalted: layer upon layer of chocolate. For maximum effect, the cake's finish should be as perfect as possible, with even sides and a mirror-smooth, glossy surface. The cake is architechturally straightfoward - three cake layers filled with whipped ganache and topped with a ganache glaze. After baking the layers, trim them with a serrated knife to get them level before applying the whipped ganache filling. Whisking aerates a ganache, giving it volume and an airy, mousselike consistency.
 
 
By varying the proportions of cream and the whisking time, whipped ganaches of different density are achieved. For most layer-cake fillings, an approximately equal ratio of chocolate and cream are used, but a lighter sponge cake, like a génoise, benefits from an airy ganache. If the ganache is overworked, cocoa butter and cocoa solids separate, and the mixture loses its gloss: Curdling does not affect its taste but does change its appearance and texture. To get a smooth finish, prepare the assembled cake for glazing by applying a "crumb coat" - a layer of whipped ganache that seals in crumbs on the cake's surface. After refrigeration, the ganache glaze should be poured, occasionally shaking the base to redistribute the glaze evenly: A spatula can be used to spread the glaze, but try to work it as little as possible to guarantee an elegant sheen.
 
 
[ LUSCIOUS CHOCOLATE CAKE ]

1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pans and parchment
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon best-quality coca powder, plus more for pans
3/4 cup milk
2 1/4 cup sifted cake flour (not self-raising)
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 recipe Whipped Ganache (recipe follows)
1 recipe Poured Ganache Glaze (recipe follows)

 
 
Heat oven to 350°F. Arrange two racks in center of oven. Line bottoms of three 9-by-2-inch buttered cake pans with parchment; butter again. Dust bottoms and sides with cocoa; tap out excess. Sift cocoa into a medium bowl; stir in 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons boiling water until smooth; gradually whisk in milk. Set aside to cool.

Sift flour, baking soda, and salt into a bowl. Set aside. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter on low until fluffy. Gradually beat in sugar, scraping down sides twice. Beat in vanilla.

Add eggs, a third at a time, beating after each addition. With mixer on low speed, alternate adding flour mixture and reserved cocoa mixture a little at a time, starting and ending with flour mixture. Divide batter evenly among prepared pans; spread with an offset spatula until level.

Bake 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pans if necessary, until a cake tester inserted into the center of each cake comes out clean. Let cool in pans set on a wire rack, about 15 minutes. Remove the cakes from the pans, and return to rack to cool, tops up.

Trim cake layers until level. Place one layer of cake on a cardboard cake round. Spread about 1 1/4 cups whipped ganache on cake; top with a second cake. Repeat. Spread remaining whipped ganache evenly over top and sides of cake to seal in crumbs and form a smooth surface. Chill until crumb coat is firm, about 30 minutes.

Place cake (still on the cardboard cake round) on a wire rack set in baking pan. Pour enough ganache glaze over cake to fully coat, shaking pan gently to help spread ganache if necessary. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes. The ganache in the baking pan may be strained through a fine sieve and added back into glaze. Pour remaining glaze over cake; allow excess to drip off sides. If top is not smooth, gently shake pan, or run an off-set spatula quickly over surface. Allow to set at least 30 minutes before serving.

Makes 1 nine-inch layer cake.

[ WHIPPED GANACHE ]

Ganache must be cold to whip properly.

1 pound bittersweet chocolate
2 1/2 cups heavy cream

Chop chocolate finely using a serrated knife, and place in a large heat-proof bowl.

Bring cream to a boil over medium-high heat; pour directly over chopped chocolate. Allow to sit for 10 minutes; use a rubber spatula or a small whisk to gently stir chocolate and cream until totally combined.

Chill ganache; stir every 5 minutes until mixture is cool to the touch. Remove bowl from refrigerator; whip ganache with a wire whisk until it just barely begins to hold its shape and is slightly lighter in color. Do not overwhip, or mixture will become grainy. Ganache will keep thickening after you stop whisking. Use immediately.

Makes about 4 cups.

[ POURED GANACHE GLAZE ]

The ganache gets thicker as it sits. You want it pourable but thick enough to fully coat the cake.

1 pound bittersweet chocolate
2 1/2 cups heavy cream

Chop chocolate finely using a serrated knife, and place in a large heat-proof  bowl.

Bring cream to a boil over medium-high heat; pour directly over chopped chocolate. Allow to sit 10 minutes; use a rubber spatula to gently stir chocolate and cream until combined. Allow to sit at room temperature until just thickened, about 15 minutes.

Makes about 4 cups.






STACKS, The Art of Vertical Food

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Copyright © Frank Fileccia 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004.