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Mushrooms


Chanterelles

Prized throughout Europe (in Germany as the pfifferling and in France as girolles), the golden chanterelle is harvested in many parts of North America. Known for it's delicate texture and aroma, this variety is often described as "fruity, like an apricot". Some Chefs have even used chanterelles in sorbet as a between-course treat or a dessert.
Enoki or Enokitake

These long, thin, white stemmed, small capped mushrooms sre cultivated in jars in the dark. They are generally considered the "sprouts" of the mushroom family, often bundled as garnish for a salad plate or included as an exotic component for sandwiches.

Shiitake

Most of the fresh shiitake available in North America vary widely in flavor, from strong and woodsy to mild and ordinary. To get the best value, choose small, firm, fleshy types with the characteristic "dome" on the cap. Shiitake should also have a distinct aroma and be fairly dry in texture.

Oyster

This mushroom gets it's name from it's white, shell-like body rather than it's taste, which can vary from very mild to strong and sweet with the aroma of anise. Its texture ranges from soft to chewy. Many producers now cultivate oyster varieties in various shades of pink, yellow and blue.

Cremini/Portobello

These two varieties are actually the same product, in that a well fed cremino will grow up to be a portobello. Although similar to common white button mushrooms, brown skinned cremini are generally more solid and meaty with a more intense flavor. Once portobello-sized, these mushrooms stand up well on the grill, and are often used as a meat substitute in vegetarian dishes.

Morels

As sure a sign of spring as asparagus, fresh morels are one of the most highly coveted of the wild mushroom species. An intensely woodsy or smokey aroma is the key to choosing morels, either fresh or dried, and the smaller sizes generally have better flavor. Always check the honeycombed surface for evidence of insects or worms, and make sure morels are washed well yet carefully.

Mushroom Management

Don't always buy mushrooms based on appearance, shape and colors don't often survive cooking.

Other than common white button mushrooms or possibly shiitake, avoid serving mushrooms raw, most of them taste terrible in this state. Cooking will also kill any natural toxins or compounds that can cause indigestion, as well as the bacteria that can grow on cultivated mushrooms.

Store fresh mushrooms at 2 deg C to 4 deg C and at 85 to 90 percent humidity. Never wash them before storage, and keep away from strong smelling foods.

Reprinted from Foodservice and Hospitality Magazine, May 1999






STACKS, The Art of Vertical Food

This page is maintained by Chef Frank Fileccia, CCC, CEC, GOM (Frank's Recipes)
Copyright © Frank Fileccia 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004.